Interview with Adrian Wu

Adrian Wu launched his 2011 resort collection last Wednesday.  The collection was based on ideas around molecular compounds, Mayan conspiracy theories, and extraterrestrialism.  With conspiracy comes controversy.  Along with conversation on his resort collection came talks of philosophy, politics, and social norms.

"Nothing in this world is unnatural".
As an advocate for anti-institutions and anti-politics, Wu talked of how everything in society is a construction.  Often asking who came up with social norms and why they are in place, he challenged ideas of what "fashion" is.  He argued that fashion is a product of cultural institutions and that society creates what is deemed as beautiful.  He went as far to say that clothing itself is a societal idea where in hotter seasons/climates, it is actually not necessary.  Wu says that he is less concerned with fashion and more interested in personal style. 

He says that when it comes down to dresses, realistically, they look better modeled by someone tall and a size 2.  With this controversial statement, he reminds us that every body type is beautiful and that we should be dressing to flatter our body type- not based on what is "in fashion".  This isn't limited to women though.  If a man had the right silhouette, he would look great in a dress.  What stops a man from wearing a dress is the concept of masculinity.  Wu says that what differentiates men and women aren't necessarily biological differences, but ideas of masculinity/femininity.  This relates to critiques he gets as a male designer of dresses.  Critics question how Wu would know what women want to wear because of his gender.  He responds by saying that he is a dress designer, not a womenswear designer.  "Who says that women and men have to dress a certain way?"

He acknowledges that people come in all sorts of body types and that everyone is beautiful.  Models should not be seen as being irrelevant to "real people"- they're just like any other person, but with a specific body type.  Like any other job, modeling requires a certain said of criteria and qualifications (based on aesthetics).  Wu says that people shouldn't feel the pressure to look a certain way if they're not models since there's no need to fit that set of criteria.  This is why he looks for personal style rather than fitting the fashion mould- everyone should just do whatever makes them beautiful in their own way.

Finally, I asked Wu what he would be if he were an item of clothing.  In relation to his discussion on masculinity and femininity and societal norms, he said that he would be a simple white shirt.  After all, "a dress is just a really long shirt".

For more, visit ottawafashionweek.com/blog

7 Days of Designers- Interview with Worth. by David C. Wigley

Well, I never said that the 7 days had to be consecutive.  After his busy pre-|FAT| schedule, I finally got the chance to chat with David C. Wigley after his show.  His collection, Worth., instantly caught my attention when a ballerina dressed in a black tutu with animal-like skeletal face paint tiptoed on stage.  His collection held ready-to-wear fashions with an edgy kick.  These black, white, and blue garments held an intense feeling of draping fabrics for both men and women.  An interesting feature was the harnesses that a few of the men were wearing in a daring fashion that could still work for daily practicality.  His final piece was a fine flowing blue and grey dress that made the model look like she was wearing an ocean wave being tossed in the wind.

Wigley's past modeling experience opened him up to the world of fashion. What distinguishes Worth. from other labels is its use of environmentally friendly techniques.  Wigley's interest in sustainable fashion stemmed from his 2009 showing at |FAT| where he had the idea that "timeless pieces should be good for the environment".  He uses sustainable materials such as organic cotton, felted wool, and bamboo.  He wants to encourage people to buy timeless pieces that they can wear over again.  This promotes sustainable fashion because it means that materials are being reused instead of disposed.  Sustainability is also why he reuses some pieces in his collections.  Timeless pieces act as staples and accessories to whole outfits instead of being one-hit-wonder trends.

Wigley said that his collection was inspired by the Black Swan.  The ballerina was inspired by a thought that he had on what our insides look like.  From those two inspirations, her look became a "haphazard" mix of skeletal structures and ballet.  From his collection, Wigley says that he likes the classic pieces such as jersey shirts and skinny jeans.

Speaking of jeans, I also asked Wigley what he would be if he was an item of clothing.  He raved about his $24 H&M jeans that he says he practically wears everyday.  He works full time as a visual merchandiser for H&M, which probably explains his enthusiasm for the comfort and affordability of the jeans.  Lastly, I asked him how long it usually takes him to get ready in the morning.  Typically, it takes him around an hour, but the hustle and bustle of |FAT| meant that he had to trim down that time and get ready in 5 minutes and throw on "whatever was clean".  Even if he took a fraction of the time to get ready in the morning, he was still looking sharp and even relaxed after his great show.

Photos by Geoff Fitzgerald of digitalfabrik.ca

7 Days of Designers- Interview with Emily Woudenberg

I had the opportunity to interview Emily Woudenberg at Ottawa Fashion Week where she displayed her work with Anastasiya Kuyevda.  Through this face-to-face interview, I managed to get a look at Woudenberg's refreshingly excitable and passionate personality.  When I received her reply in response to our email interview this time around, her writing managed to capture that same essence.  At [FAT], Woudenberg will be showing her latest solo collection, PENROSE.  Inspired by M.C. Escher's Ascending and Descending Staircase, Woudenberg describes her collection as colourful and vintage inspired.  PENROSE includes pieces that are wearable and "perfect for women who are bold and expressive".

What does 'alternative fashion' mean to you? 

I think alternative fashion is an accident for me because I don't really know what "not alternative fashion" is. I don't go to fashion school, I didn't like the girls that wanted to go there in high school. So I don't really understand the "rules" (standards) of the industry. There must be a rule like in graphic design that's like "Helvetica is the god font", but for fashion. I guess I will learn as I go.

What inspired this collection? 

I have a really big crush on M.C. Escher, so he had a small role for the inspiration for the last collection. But for this collection, he became the centre component. A lot of people see the trailer and say "Inception" but I don't see it! In the clothes, there are a lot of lines, and a couple almost have staircases in them. Others are more jewellery driven to show jewellery- just 'cause that's where I started.

You said in our last interview that your designs reflect your personality.  How does this collection reflect who you are?  

Ya, I think we were talking about how Anastasiya and I both have our own styles. I don't know if this collection reflects who I am. Because I am working alone, it shows a lot of me and my thinking currently. However, I do not know if this is who I will be for the next five years. Being young, it is hard to say if this is my "style"...if I have one. I like being able to experiment with what I can do and not stick to one style. [It] gives me room to grow. 

But I guess to answer your question, it reflects how I feel about trends. I just get really confused when I see magazines that say "Oh, it's spring! Refresh your wardrobe- buy florals!". Some trends are honest, others are just to make sales and to get you to purely buy more. Does anyone really read that stuff and go shopping ASAP? We (Toronto) have tons of designers who are creative enough to do something interesting and different, not to sell the same stuff each year.

You're showcasing on the "Fashion Narratives day"- what story does your collection tell? 

Well, I am doing a film to match up with the collection with help from Justin Arjune and a really great team. And that really helps express the story. It's about a beautiful young lady that finds herself in a never-ending staircase, following every trend and buying new clothes; but of course, the staircase never ends. 

Is designing for FAT different from designing from OFW? 

Yes, FAT is more creative and free-form. OFW is also very creative, but the expectations (especially if it's in the National Gallery), I feel is more strict. But, it was sick to show in the National Gallery.

I see from the FAT schedule that you're designing solo this time around.  How is designing alone different from partnering?  Which do you prefer?
I miss Anastasiya! I really love working with others. In a sense, I am still working with people- I just have a few more liberties in small choices. But, I still find I am working with a bunch of people, so it's not a huge difference. The only negative in partners is that you can't have this amazing reigning powerful creative vision- you need to be able to have the vision, but share it and let it be malleable. And no one works as hard as you do (in your own head).

What is one of your biggest challenges as a designer?  

Time. Full time school. Full time fashion. Zero time me.

If you had to shop at one store (for clothes) for the rest of your life, where would it be?

Value Village.

If you were an item of clothing, what would you be and why?

My boyfriend jeans. I would make all women wear me because they look so much better than tight jeans and don't hurt.

Thank you so much, Emily Woudenberg for your time!

Emily will be showcasing at the Toronto Alternative Arts & Fashion Show on April 26 at 9 p.m.


Images from [FAT]'s Flickr and emilywoudenberg.com

7 Days of Designers- Interview with Heidi Ackerman

Heidi Ackerman's obsession with the future is the basis for her designs.  Through the combination of futuristic landscapes and classics from the past, she creates an almost bizarre fusion of art and fashion.  Because of her thoughts on the future and how we affect it, Ackerman tends to use eco-friendly materials to highlight the importance of sustainability.  Her interest in sustainability stemmed from a trip she took during her second year at Ryerson for tree planting.  It was through this experience that she took a special interest in the environment, especially regarding the devastation of landscapes by the forest industry.  Ackerman says that she's had an interest in fashion for a long time.  She recalls how her grandmother would sew a lot, which attributed to her skill in sewing at a young age.

Though this upcoming collection relies on a few sustainable materials such as locally produced wood accessories, its main focus is exploration, experimentation, and collaboration.  For this collection, she is working with Lindsay Sinclair, an industrial design major.  With this, the two combine principles in fashion and industrial design such as art, structure, and material.  This acts as an opportunity for them both to explore the possibilities between design and structure, creating pieces that focus less on the ready-to-wear aspect of fashion and more on its artistic flare.  Ackerman had a bit of trouble finding the right words to describe her upcoming collection.  Eventually, with the help of Sinclair, they agreed on this description: "It seems almost alien.  We don't know what time or place- whether it's the past, present, or future".

Because Ackerman is showcasing on the "Fashion/Unfashion" day at the [FAT], I asked her what "unfashion" means to her.  She describes unfashion as involving a less commercial aspect where it relies more on art, not sales.  She says that she is interested in a commercial line for the future; but as of right now, she's more interested in exploring.  She expresses that it can be difficult being a young designer now, especially with a large variety of "fast fashion".  With this, she says that many people can't afford custom designs since they tend to be more expensive and head towards cheaper commercial fashion.  Ackerman thinks that there is increasing appreciation for fashion as Toronto's fashion and design community grows.  In comparison to oversea fashion meccas, she views North America as being more focused on commercialized fashion; whereas, in Europe and Asia, there is more support for "young designers doing weird stuff".

Heidi Ackerman and Lindsay Sinclair will be showcasing at 8:45 pm on April 28 at the Toronto Alternative Arts & Fashion Week.

Thank you to Heidi Ackerman for taking time to do this interview!
Special thanks to Theresa Micallef of [FAT] for facilitating this.

Images from [FAT]'s Flickr

7 Days of Designers- Interview with Human Nature by Kallvis Gents

"I can change my personality and style, but I like to be myself".  Kallvis Chen began as a computer science major, but quickly became bored of its lack of excitement.  He also modeled, but similarly, he grew tried of its passive role in fashion. While he accepted being told how to stand, how to look, and how to dress, he wanted his own say. Kallvis doesn't let societal roles or expectations stand in his way of being himself.  In fact, he doesn't even let his full name stand as a label.  As a designer, Kallvis goes by 'Kallvis Gents' where Gents is an anagram for his mother's maiden name (Tseng).  Because of his strong relationship with his mother, Kallis felt as though this change represented a better sense of who he is.  After an engaging conversation with him on his views on fashion, society, and politics, one thing was clear- in the end, it's all about being himself.

Kallvis describes his upcoming collection as "very different" where he plays on his interpretation of current fashion trends, pushing them to the next level.  His collection is meant to bring power to women and versatility to men.  He wants to challenge typical street wear and bring forth a collection that one would not typically see in stores.  It was difficult for him to pinpoint exactly what inspired this collection; but instead, described it more as "a feeling" based on street wear and behaviours around him that somehow connected together.  Instead of describing how his designs represent his personality, Kallvis expressed that his designs are him.  He painted the picture that at [FAT] on the runway, his showcase could be seen as 5 Kallvis's in menswear, and 5 Kallvis's dressed in drag (for his women's wear designs).

"Everyone wants to look pretty, everyone wants to look good...everyone wants to apply their creativity". Kallvis says that typical criticisms of fashion such as commercialism and its emphasis on aesthetics are acceptable to a certain point.  He believes that people are more or less superficial and like the idea of money and beauty, but that it's natural.  "Everything about design is based on human nature".  It becomes problematic when fashion becomes solely about selling where the art and expressionism in fashion is undermined.  He believes that the worst thing would be having no personality in design.

Among his other critiques is his strong view on ethnic representations in fashion.  He observes that there are rarely any ethnic models and views the predominant use of Caucasian models as a form of racism.  He wants to push for a greater diversity in models.  When looking for people to model his [FAT] collection, he found it difficult to find people of ethnic minorities.  He sees minorities as underrepresented and suppressed in the fashion industry.  He says that he believes this because he feels like he experiences this suppression.  He talks about how he feels as though people attach stereotypical associations about him based on his ethnicity.  He says that these judgments are based on subconscious teachings regarding ethnicity.  Though "you can't help how people think of you", he raises the point that one of the problems is that people want to avoid conflict when talking about race.  He points out that in Canada, especially in Toronto, people accept it as being multicultural; instead, issues surrounding race are never brought to attention.  However, he believes that "it only takes a few crazy people to change the world" where he might just be one of those crazy people.

Finally, I asked Kallvis about his thoughts on his age (22) in relation to the fashion industry.  He says that though his youth makes him a little spontaneous, he's strong and mature for his age.  He talks about  how coming to Canada from Taiwan at age 15 without his parents has made him strong, independent, and ready to deal with anything.  Kallvis also says that his youth gives him the energy to keep up with the rush and demand of the fashion industry.  "You have to run in fashion."  Whether it's running to find materials or meet a deadline, Kallvis says that he's running three times as fast.  He's proved this thus far by being the first person in George Brown college history to attend the Telio Design Competition in Montreal.  He says that it is extremely important to have a clear passion and a clear vision.  For Kallvis, this means continually working towards raising awareness about racism.

Human Nature will kick off the runway shows on the final day of Toronto Alternative Arts & Fashion Week on April 29 at 7:10 pm.

Thank you, Kallvis Gents for a spirited interview!
Special thanks to Theresa Micallef of [FAT] for facilitating this.

Images from Human Nature's Flickr

7 Days of Designers- Interview with Breeyn McCarney

"I don't think I could do anything else and be happy".  Breeyn McCarney's love for creation and expression led her to fashion.  Dissatisfied with pretentious critiques of her paintings, McCarney turned to fashion as a new outlet for not only her artistic touch, but also as an outlet for her personality and opinions.  Fashion helps her to see balance in her life by providing a lighter feeling to her political and environmental views.  Her typical designs involve strong political undertones, usually driven by things that she's mad at in the world.  However, her upcoming collection that will be showcasing at [FAT] takes on a lighter tone evoked by "pure creative freedom".

McCarney upcoming collection, Paper Dolls, is described as "dream-like" where it features a fantasy quality.  She calls this collection a celebration of things she likes, including texture, paper doilies, and light.  She says that we can expect a collection that is not necessarily typical fashion or utilitarian, but plays with the creative side of fashion.  With this, her runway collection will be made entirely of paper with LED lights and muscle wire complementing the design.  She thinks that the political undertones that she usually works with can get depressing, so she hopes that her [FAT] collection will bring more light- literally.

McCarney is also very passionate about green fashion and environmental issues in society.  She describes the Earth as our backyard where the whole planet belongs to us- not just a certain area.  She says that "the Earth is the single most important thing in our lives because we can't live without it".  She believes that people need to get the message that if we ruin the planet, we will not be able to survive.  McCarney says that she's felt like this ever since she was a child.  She makes as many lifestyle choices as she can that promote environmental consciousness such as riding a bike instead of driving.  She says that though it can be frustrating at times to be a Canadian designer, but it is important to be proud of her nationality.  She looks at this from a general industrial level where she observes that because of Canada's immense size, it can be difficult for people to connect with one another.  This also causes difficulties in determining what 'Canadian' is, which is why we often look to other places (like the US) for identity markers.  However, she says that Canada should not try to be something it's not, and instead, try to find what really makes us distinct.

McCarney says that it is difficult to tell what the future holds for her and her brand since her goals are changing all the time.  She says that she tries not to be too strict with her plans since directions are constantly changing.  In general, she plans to keep building her brand and pushing it to the next level. 

Thank you so much Breeyn McCarney for your time!
And thank you to Theresa Micallef of [FAT] for facilitating this interview.

Breeyn McCarney will be showcasing on April 28th at 7:10 at the Toronto Alternative Arts & Fashion Week.

Photo set 1 and 2 from [FAT]'s Flickr, photo set 3 from breeyn.com

7 Days of Designers- Interview with MARTIN LIM

It was a delight talking with Danielle Martin, half of the brains behind Montreal-based brand, MARTIN LIM.  The other half of the operations is Pao Lim, Martin's husband.  She says that they've known each other for about 16 years now.  The two met at a friend's party, studied fashion together, and eventually started their brand.  While the two have similar styles in design (after all, they have known each other for such a long time), Martin says that their differences in gender give them natural impressions on what looks good when taking boldness and femininity into consideration.

Fashion first tweaked Martin's interest when she was a child.  She talks about how she would watch movies and television shows that displayed stunning dresses that caught her attention.  She likes the creative aspect of fashion where it acts as an outlet for self-expression.  It is this same creative aspect that can also be challenging, but enjoyable.  She says that one of her biggest challenges as a designer is creating pieces that are applicable to her and to others.  This is combined with the challenge of fusing bold and classic pieces.  Martin says that since she started MARTIN LIM, she does wear some of the clothes that she designs, though at times she tends to feel like a walking advertisement for her brand.  Wearing what she designs helps her creative process though since it acts as a way for her to reflect on her creations.  Thinking about pieces that she would want to wear helps her to come up with pieces that others would want as well.

Martin would describe their collection as "classical with a modern edge" where she likes the combination of edginess and refined femininity.  This edge can also be brought on by the coolness of great shoes and accessories.  Martin says that we can expect a fine mix of classic and modern designs- largely inspired by art and styles from the 20s.  Their designs are meant to evoke ideas of comfort and sophistication for the modern woman.  Their brand also represents their ideas surrounding Canadian fashion production.  All their garments are locally produced and use national materials when available.  Martin hopes that this can help promote Montreal's fashion scene where she wants it to prominent and renown such as the fashion hubs overseas.  She believes that Montreal's fashion scene differs from the rest of Canada because of its deep connection with the French culture.  With this, Montreal looks to France's fashion techniques for inspiration.  This includes inspiration on colour choice, fabrics, and more. I also asked Martin about her thoughts on the relationship between what a person wears and his/her personality.  She says that dress "reflects the feeling of the day" where there's no concrete personality traits that can be judged off appearance since moods and emotions change with each day.

Martin's future fashion plans include the expansion of MARTIN LIM, as well as the establishment of a second label that will focus more on less expensive clothing.  MARTIN LIM currently holds merchandising in Montreal, so she hopes that it will be able to expand into Ontario, the rest of Canada, and eventually internationally.

MARTIN LIM serves as not only a lovely Montreal fashion label, but also as an inspirational story of effort and fulfillment.  In a following remark via Twitter, Martin says that her and her husband share the same values where they want to "...transmit the sense of effort and appreciation of what [they] get from it to [their] kids".

Similarly, I hope that I'm able to evoke that same sense of appreciation for designers to my readers.  Personally, after doing these interviews, it makes seeing the creations of the designers all the more wonderful.  I don't just see fashion on the runway- I see thoughts, personality, effort, and spirit.

Thank you to Danielle Martin of MARTIN LIM for the interview!
Special thanks to Theresa Micallef of [FAT] for making this interview happen.

MARTIN LIM kicks off the Toronto Alternative Arts & Fashion Week runway shows at 7:15 pm on April 26.

Images from martin-lim.com

7 Days of Designers- Interview with ica watermelon

I had the opportunity of interviewing Julia Knüpfer of i.c.a. watermelon over the weekend.  Calling from Berlin, Germany, Knüpfer discussed her eco-friendly brand and shared her views on fashion and the environment.  Despite an unsure Skype connection and a semi-fuzzy cell phone, we managed to have a great conversation about the importance of sustainability and societal trends.  'i.c.a watermelon' stands for "I carried a watermelon"- a famous line from the movie Dirty Dancing.  What started off as a simple movie quote as a brand name soon turned into a representation of how Knüpfer's brand carries the large image of green fashion.

Knüpfer had an interest in fashion ever since she was a child.  At a young age, she began making clothes for herself.  She originally started out as a psychology major, but soon realized that a more creative path was her true calling.  During this time, she studied conventional fashions and decided that she wanted to take a different route.  This gave rise to her strong interest in sustainable fashion.  Knüpfer says that she is easily inspired by those around her and that her collection is inspired by her concern for humanity and its future.  Knüpfer describes her collection as "extraordinary" where she doesn't rely on current trends, but opts for high quality long-lasting designs.  Her collection uses a variety of techniques such as knitting and crocheting, which play into her eco-friendly scheme. Furthermore, she uses eco-friendly materials such as certified organic cotton, wool, and natural dyes.  This can be attributed to the fact that Knüpfer is most passionate about animal rights.  Knüpfer, who is also a vegetarian, always ensures that if she is to use materials like wool, the animals are fairly treated.  She says that her designs are similar to her personal style where they both reflect her personality.  She describes her personal style as "feminine, poetic, and artsy" where it offers a subtle storytelling aspect.

I noticed that on her website, it encourages people to be "greenagers".  Knüpfer says that this term is a combination of 'green' and 'teenager', which represents how she believes that we are the new generation that should think about the future and pay special attention to caring for others.  She hopes that this kind of thinking will act as a new criteria for lifestyles and for design.  She views the current relationship between fashion and the environment as slowly growing where people are becoming more aware of sustainable fashion, but much encouragement is still needed. She also talks large corporations and how they should be able to produce green fashion since they have many resources (such as money) available to them.  She is optimistic though where she hopes that in the future, it won't be necessary to be labeled a green designer if eco-friendly fashions is the norm.

I also asked her about how she thinks society views green fashion.  She says that people are generally open-minded, but she finds that people would tend to choose aesthetic appeal over an eco-friendly garment.  Eco-friendliness is seen as a bonus rather than a factor to take into consideration.  She says that there are still many misconceptions about eco-fashion where people are not aware enough about its truths.  She believes that people tend to think that eco-fashions are more expensive and/or unattractive.  However, she says that this is not true.  Green fashion comes in many different varieties of styles, so it's not necessary to compromise style and design to be green.

Knüpfer's intends to continue promoting the importance of green fashion and expanding her brand.  If you're in Berlin, keep an eye out for the i.c.a. watermelon flagship store opening later this year!  As my final question, I asked her how long it usually takes her to get ready in the morning.  "20 minutes, but 2 hours to wake up!" I can completely relate.

Thank you to Julia Knüpfer of ica watermelon and Theresa Micallef of [FAT] for making this interview happen!

Be sure to check out ica watermelon at the Toronto Alternative Arts & Fashion Week on April 27 at 9 p.m!

Images via [FAT]'s Flickr

From fashion blogger to fashion journalist

The last time I wanted to be a journalist, I was 11.  Since then, I've danced around ideas of journalism with my studies in communications, but still never having the desire to be a reporter.  Coming into my position as a Social Media Intern for Ottawa Fashion Week, I expected to be maintaining the blog, twitter, and facebook accounts (which I do).  Never would I have thought that I'd have the great opportunity of interviewing some the nation's best upcoming and established designers today.

I was told to cover OFW's model fitting- not quite sure what "covering" the event meant.  Upon arriving, I was told that it would be a good idea to take lots of pictures and get a few interviews from the designers.  Interviews.  I've had no experience with interviews and barely knew where to start.  I started my morning with spectating the model fittings, carefully watching each strut and technique.  As designs were showcased, I became more enthusiastic and inexplicably excited for the runway shows.

My first interview was a blur.  I'll be honest- I didn't really know what I was doing, what I was looking for, or what I was saying.  Thank goodness I sat down with my photographer (who is also a journalism student), Isabel Tang, and brainstormed questions of appeal and direction.  The interviews got easier as the day proceeded.  I was genuinely intrigued with what people had to say.   Talking with the designers was great- they were all friendly, interesting, and quirky in their own way.

I've never been so inspired before, especially by so many people in such a short amount of time.  Never would I have imagined this kind of opportunity.  Frankly, I'm still super giddy and can't believe that this happened. Definitely a day to remember.

Adrian Wu

Khala Morgan

Emily Woudenberg & Anastaysia Kuyevda

Yolande Deschenes of Yola Couture

Vickie Joseph of Nui fashion

To read the full interviews, visit Ottawa Fashion Week's blog

Photography by Isabel Tang.  These images belong to Ottawa Fashion Week.